A delayed story. Yakushima continues.
I didn’t have to start my day until 9:30, which was fine after a long day of hiking and a night of drinking. This is when I would rent my 50cc bike and ride it around the island for a day. It is also something I would highly recommend, more than a car, despite the rain since the air is sweet with the smell of Jasmine.
It was a rainy day, something I thought of as normal. I was a little surprised when the rental shop asked me if I was sure I wanted to go today. My response was natural in that it rains every day in Yakushima. I think I even received a discount. I should have taken this as a clue.
So I headed north on my bike going around the island counter clockwise. My first stop was a beach that in a few short months would be the nesting grounds for sea turtles. Since there wasn’t much there I just spend a few minutes admiring the rock formations carved from the ocean.
Onward I hit the NW coast, with narrow winding roads climbing up above but along the sea. Here is where a 50cc bike makes it worthwhile, since buses and large vehicles are not allowed on this road. Normal sized cars are fine, but there is something about smelling the sweet jungle air mixed with the ocean breeze as well as passing monkeys and deer not from behind a windshield.
I little ways up I stopped at a lighthouse.
I continued on, by this time my gortex pants were already failing. Slowly water began to seep in. By the time I reached the first waterfall, I was 80% soaked. After enjoying the waterfall I continued on. Passed a few hotsprings, including one that was in the ocean, and decided it was time to find refuge from the downpour that began. I found a small café & restaurant and went inside. I got a few stares since I was dripping water by this time, forming a small lake under my chair.
At the counter I enjoyed a few cups of free coffee and order a miso pork cutlet. I also started a conversation with the old man next to me. He was trying very hard to use English, and it turns out he used to live in Tokyo before retiring in Yakushima. I explained some of my history and purpose for coming to Yakushima and taught a few interesting facts about Montana. It wasn’t long after finishing my meal that he asked me if I wanted to go to an onsen.
Honestly, I wasn’t very keen since I was already soaked and really didn’t want to take off the clothes just to put them back on again. I also wasn’t keen about being naked with a strange old man. However, there I found myself in his car no less, heading to an onsen. It must have been his broken English telling me that travel is suppose to push someone beyond their boundaries. So I guess I leaped.
I entered the hot spring. And to call it hot is an understatement. It was near boiling. However, I decided to store up as much heat as possible before I had to put on my wet clothes. Apparently, I was too “rushed” though according to the old man. He couldn’t believe I was finished so quick. However, I agree. Both the situation and water temperature didn’t necessarily make it completely relaxing.
After being taken back to the restaurant where I parked my bike, I headed onward to another waterfall. This one had a sweeping view that made me feel as if I was some explorer in the Amazon. After a quick photo, I pushed forward. By this time the rain was falling hard. To ride over 50km/hr made the rain hitting my face feel like gravel. I took off my rain hood and tied it around my face, bandit style. This helped quite a bit, although there was a small space on my forehead that kept getting pelted.
I finally reached my last destination goal. By this time the rain had washed away my cheer. I almost decided to pass the hiking trail to the last waterfall, however I know opportunity only knocks once even if it’s when you aren’t ready. Not to mention, it would be the first time I would see a waterfall that fell into the ocean. So after a short hike and a semi obscured view of the waterfall, I mounted my bike and headed back to Miyanoura as fast as possible. After about 50 minutes at max speed I was back and returned my bike.
Soaked to the bone, I had to figure out a way to get dry shoes.
